On a chilly and damp winter day, there’s nothing quite as inviting as a cozy countryside pub radiating warmth. I had been eager to visit this charming pub nestled in a quaint village in the Vale of Glamorgan for several reasons. Firstly, its stellar reputation for delectable food drew me in. Secondly, having passed by it numerous times on my bike rides, I often found myself tempted to abandon my cycling and pop in for a pint.
However, the primary allure that beckoned me to this pub was its ownership by a renowned sports figure. Two decades ago, I was among the spectators when Gavin Henson executed a legendary and pivotal kick in the annals of Welsh rugby history. Despite not being the designated kicker that day, Henson courageously stepped up with just minutes remaining, successfully launching a 44-meter kick from an incredibly challenging angle, securing a monumental victory for Wales against England in Cardiff and heralding a new era for Welsh rugby.
Henson, characterized by his distinctive spiky hair, bronzed complexion, shaved legs, and remarkable physique, ascended to stardom, forming a high-profile couple with singer Charlotte Church. Their celebrity status earned them regular features in UK tabloids and Heat magazine in the mid-2000s, earning them the moniker “Welsh Posh and Becks.” Beyond his celebrity persona, Henson showcased exceptional athletic prowess and dedication, garnering admiration from fans for his distinctiveness. Despite his flair for standing out, Henson eventually retreated from the limelight, now embracing a quieter family life in the serene village of St Brides Major, near his hometown.
In 2019, Henson and his wife, Katie, assumed ownership of The Fox, a move marked by a black Bentley parked nearby hinting at his presence. Following a significant renovation, the pub reopened in February 2020, only to face the challenges posed by the pandemic and Brexit-related disruptions. Nevertheless, early reviews commended the establishment for its cuisine and hospitality, with Henson personally attending to patrons.
Presently, The Fox exudes an air of timeless operation, blending homeliness with elegance through its flagstone flooring, tasteful wall colors, rustic wooden furnishings, and festive Christmas adornments. Settling into a cozy corner table, we savored Butty Bach ale and Jeremy Clarkson’s Hawkstone lager while perusing the menu. The wine selection, starting at a reasonable price point, offered further delights.
The Sunday menu, concise yet enticing, featured a selection of starters and main courses. Opting for crispy ham hock with confit egg yolk, fennel, and apple, as well as a cod and salmon fishcake with samphire and caper butter, we relished the crispy exteriors and flavorful fillings. For the main course, we indulged in roast sirloin of Welsh beef and shoulder of Welsh lamb, both exquisite offerings accompanied by an array of delectable sides.
Our dining experience culminated in a satisfying bill for two starters, two mains, two children’s meals, beverages, and a fruit juice. The reasonable pricing, coupled with the warm ambiance and delectable fare, left a lasting impression. Observing other patrons expressing their intent to return, I echoed their sentiment, encapsulating my experience in four words: a place worth revisiting, despite missing a glimpse of a revered sports hero.